Orrery re-opens with new menu and interior
A longstanding favourite among Marylebone residents and visitors alike, the French restaurant Orrery is celebrating its 21st anniversary with a refreshed menu devised by the chef-patron Igor Tymchyshyn and a beautiful new interior designed by Sagrada.
Looking out over Marylebone High Street, the first-floor dining-room has a relaxed, airy feel, with floor-to-ceiling arched windows and a light, pale colour scheme of grey, blue and lilac. Features such as lavender panelling and terracotta clay pots transport diners to the south of France, as does the tasting menu of classic and modern Gallic-inspired dishes. On my visit, I opted to go à la carte, starting with a combination of heritage beetroot and Sainte-Maure that was as visually alluring as it was pleasing to the palate, the richness of the goat’s cheese perfectly offset by the tangy garnish of kohlrabi and radish. My main of Jerusalem artichoke risotto was as creamy and satisfying as I had hoped, and I couldn’t help but overhear the satisfied cooing of my neighbour, who had chosen the Cornish turbot. For a romantic dinner à deux, the lamb Wellington with salsify and potato mousseline would be the ideal indulgence.
The dessert selection ranges from the intensely chocolatey – the Valhrona délice comes with a salted-caramel tuile and the unusual addition of fresh pineapple – to the citrussy (don’t miss the blood-orange sorbet before the fruit goes out of season). I couldn’t resist the cryptically named ‘rhubarb, rhubarb, rhubarb’, which turned out to combine sharply flavoured stalks with a beautifully refreshing sorbet and a melt-in-the-mouth mousse.
Orrery has always been famous for its cheese trolley, and thankfully this much-loved feature remains in place in the restaurant’s new incarnation, offering more than 30 artisan varieties. There are plans to host regular cheese and wine evenings throughout the year for those eager to learn more about everyone’s favourite guilty pleasures.
Orrery, Marylebone, 55 Marylebone High Street, London W1
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