T&C tests: Tamarind Kitchen

The latest in Indian dining is in Soho, not Brick Lane

If a Michelin starred-chef cooked up your favourite local Indian, you would probably get something as deliciously perfect as Tamarind Kitchen, the spiciest new addition to Wardour Street.

Soho isn’t the natural setting for Indian cuisine, but this newcomer from the chef Alfred Prasad is the trendy offspring of Tamarind Mayfair.  So it follows that his new menu is a little more relaxed; the dimly lit setting and accompanying cocktail list is considerably more Friday-night in feel (mango and red-chilli vodka, anyone?).

But it is all served with the same grace and flavour that you would expect from the Tamarind family, our ever-reliable barometer of Indian food. Beautifully buttery naan preceded a delicious train of subtle tadka dal; fragrant Bombay potatoes topped with toasted sesame seeds; and butterfly king prawns – our favourite dish, by the way – that were big in sizzle and size. The creamy South Indian curries that followed in their brass bowls were comforting and mouthwatering in equal measure.

We lingered – long enough for dessert (the traditional Indian ice-cream kulfi, with powdery pistachio notes, that we're still dreaming of) and sweet wine – as hurried diners shared hot, hasty tikka masalas before catching their show, film or friends.

It’s as if Tamarind Kitchen was made for the West End, whichever way you take your weekend curry.

Dinner for two is from £50, for two starters, a main, dessert and glass of wine at 167–169 Wardour Street, London, W1. To book, ring 020 7287 4243 or visit tamarindkitchen.co.uk.

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